different raw ingredients used in skincare separated in bowls and utensils on neutral background

What's Inside: Ingredient Glossary

Each ingredient I choose has a reason behind it—and I keep the list short, simple, and gentle. This is your scrollable guide to everything I use (and nothing I don’t), so you can feel confident about what’s going on your skin.


Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Type: Emollient
Source: Coconut oil and glycerin
Used in: Serum, Salve, Souffle

A lightweight, fast-absorbing emollient that softens and conditions the skin without feeling greasy. It’s a fractionated form of coconut oil.

Why I chose it:

  • Non-comedogenic
  • Silky skin feel
  • Gentle for sensitive skin¹

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Type: Emollient
Source: Coconut
Used in: Salve

I use fair-trade, organic, pure, unrefined, cold-pressed coconut oil so it retains all its natural benefits. It smells like coconuts (without added fragrance or essential oils) and is rich in lauric acid.

Why I chose it:

  • Moisturizing
  • Natural scent
  • Supports skin barrier²

Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Oil

Type: Emollient
Source: Coffee beans
Used in: Serum, Suds

Cold-pressed oil from roasted coffee beans. Naturally high in palmitic acid, which helps support aging skin and offers a subtle roasted coffee scent.

Why I chose it:

  • Antioxidant-rich
  • Smells like fresh espresso
  • No essential oils or synthetic fragrance

Colloidal Oatmeal

Type: Powder
Source: Oats
Used in: Suds

Finely ground oats that help calm itching, dryness, and irritation. Clinically shown to reduce inflammation in sensitive skin conditions like eczema.

Why I chose it:

  • Anti-inflammatory
  • Calms reactive skin
  • Creates a protective barrier³

D-alpha-Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Type: Antioxidant
Source: Plant-derived
Used in: Serum, Salve

A powerful antioxidant that protects skin and helps reduce the appearance of scars. Also helps extend the shelf life of oils.

Why I chose it:

  • Supports healing
  • Antioxidant boost
  • Works synergistically with Vitamin C⁴⁵

Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate

Type: Natural preservative + humectant
Source: Fermented sugar
Used in: Suds

This gentle preservative system helps prevent spoilage if water gets into your product. It also hydrates and protects sensitive skin with added antioxidant benefits.

Why I chose it:

  • Broad-spectrum preservation
  • Moisturizing and non-irritating
  • EcoCert and COSMOS approved

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Type: Lightweight emollient
Source: Sunflower seeds
Used in: Serum, Salve, Souffle

I use the high-linoleic variety, which is ideal for oily or acne-prone skin. It’s rich in vitamin E and absorbs easily without clogging pores.

Why I chose it:

  • Helps balance sebum
  • Rich in antioxidants
  • Lightweight and non-greasy⁶⁷

Kaolin

Type: Clay
Source: Natural mineral
Used in: Suds

A gentle, low-pH clay that detoxifies and soothes without over-drying. Perfect for sensitive skin or those new to clay products.

Why I chose it:

  • Balances oil
  • Soothing
  • Gentle exfoliation⁹

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Powder

Type: Powder
Source: Rice
Used in: Suds

Fine rice flour has been used in traditional skincare for centuries to help smooth, calm, and brighten skin.

Why I chose it:

  • Evens skin tone
  • Softens skin
  • Soothing for reactive skin¹³

Lecithin (Sunflower)

Type: Emulsifier and hydration enhancer
Source: Sunflower seeds
Used in: Salve, Souffle

Acts as a natural emulsifier while helping active ingredients penetrate deeper. Leaves skin feeling soft and supple.

Why I chose it:

  • Improves absorption
  • Enhances hydration
  • Non-GMO alternative to soy lecithin¹⁰

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax

Type: Vegan wax
Source: Rice bran
Used in: Salve, Souffle

A soothing, plant-based wax that gives products their texture while protecting and moisturizing the skin. It’s a great alternative to beeswax.

Why I chose it:

  • Lightweight barrier
  • Vegan-friendly
  • Soft, non-greasy finish¹³

Pentylene Glycol

Type: Humectant + antimicrobial
Source: Sugar-based
Used in: Serum, Salve

A dual-purpose ingredient that attracts moisture into the skin and helps keep formulas stable. Has mild antimicrobial properties.

Why I chose it:

  • Hydrating
  • Helps maintain product integrity
  • Gentle on skin¹¹

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

Type: Gentle surfactant
Source: Coconut oil
Used in: Suds

Creates a creamy lather that cleanses without disrupting the skin barrier. Biodegradable and gentle enough for sensitive skin.

Why I chose it:

  • Low pH
  • Non-stripping
  • Baby-safe surfactant

Squalane (Olive-derived)

Type: Lightweight emollient
Source: Olives
Used in: Serum, Salve, Souffle

A stable, non-comedogenic oil that mimics your skin’s natural lipids. Helps soothe inflammation and balance oil production.

Why I chose it:

  • Non-greasy moisture
  • Helps calm irritation
  • Sustainable olive source¹²

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C)

Type: Antioxidant
Source: Oil-soluble form of Vitamin C
Used in: Serum

A stable, lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that penetrates deeper into the skin. Shown to improve skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots.

Why I chose it:

  • Brightens
  • Antioxidant protection
  • Works synergistically with Vitamin E⁸

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

Type: Emollient
Source: Cocoa beans
Used in: Salve, Souffle

Naturally rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, this butter melts into the skin and helps it stay soft and moisturized. Smells like chocolate without any fragrance added.

Why I chose it:

  • Deep moisturization
  • Skin-protective antioxidants
  • Delicious natural scent¹³

References

  1. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: Cosmetic ingredient widely used for emolliency and skin conditioning.
  2. Evangelista MT, Abad-Casintahan F, Lopez-Villafuerte L. The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Int J Dermatol. 2014. PMID: 24320105
  3. Fowler JF Jr. Colloidal oatmeal formulations and the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Clin Med Insights Dermatol. 2016. PMID: 28366039
  4. Jiang Y, Zheng W, Teegarden D. Vitamin E and wound healing: an evidence-based review. Nutr Clin Pract. 2016.
  5. Baumann L. Vitamin E in dermatology. Dermatol Ther. 2001.
  6. Darmstadt GL, Saha SK, Ahmed AS, et al. Effect of sunflower seed oil on neonatal infections in preterm infants: a randomized controlled trial. Lancet. 2005. PMID: 25323538
  7. Solanki K, Malkani R, Chaudhary S, et al. The effects of sunflower seed oil on skin barrier function: A randomized controlled trial. Pediatrics. 2016. PMID: 28070970
  8. Draelos ZD. The efficacy of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone in hyperpigmented skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024. PMID: 38634176
  9. Jung Y, Kim M, Kim D. Comparative evaluation of facial masks containing clays. Skin Res Technol. 2024. PMID: 10626287
  10. Baspinar Y, Bor K, Guzel S, et al. Lecithin nanoemulsions for enhanced dermal delivery of actives. Drug Dev Ind Pharm. 2010. PMID: 20652152
  11. Pentylene glycol information from cosmetic ingredient reviews and cosmetic chemists associations.
  12. Gollnick HP, et al. Topical squalane therapy and its dermal benefits. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018.
  13. Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2018. PMID: 28697218

Stay tuned—I'm always updating this list with the ingredients you’ll find in my formulas. If it’s not gentle, effective, and earth-conscious, it doesn’t make the cut.

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