
What's Inside: Ingredient Glossary
Share
Each ingredient I choose has a reason behind it—and I keep the list short, simple, and gentle. This is your scrollable guide to everything I use (and nothing I don’t), so you can feel confident about what’s going on your skin.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Type: Emollient
Source: Coconut oil and glycerin
Used in: Serum, Salve, Souffle
A lightweight, fast-absorbing emollient that softens and conditions the skin without feeling greasy. It’s a fractionated form of coconut oil.
Why I chose it:
- Non-comedogenic
- Silky skin feel
- Gentle for sensitive skin¹
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Type: Emollient
Source: Coconut
Used in: Salve
I use fair-trade, organic, pure, unrefined, cold-pressed coconut oil so it retains all its natural benefits. It smells like coconuts (without added fragrance or essential oils) and is rich in lauric acid.
Why I chose it:
- Moisturizing
- Natural scent
- Supports skin barrier²
Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Oil
Type: Emollient
Source: Coffee beans
Used in: Serum, Suds
Cold-pressed oil from roasted coffee beans. Naturally high in palmitic acid, which helps support aging skin and offers a subtle roasted coffee scent.
Why I chose it:
- Antioxidant-rich
- Smells like fresh espresso
- No essential oils or synthetic fragrance
Colloidal Oatmeal
Type: Powder
Source: Oats
Used in: Suds
Finely ground oats that help calm itching, dryness, and irritation. Clinically shown to reduce inflammation in sensitive skin conditions like eczema.
Why I chose it:
- Anti-inflammatory
- Calms reactive skin
- Creates a protective barrier³
D-alpha-Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Type: Antioxidant
Source: Plant-derived
Used in: Serum, Salve
A powerful antioxidant that protects skin and helps reduce the appearance of scars. Also helps extend the shelf life of oils.
Why I chose it:
- Supports healing
- Antioxidant boost
- Works synergistically with Vitamin C⁴⁵
Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate
Type: Natural preservative + humectant
Source: Fermented sugar
Used in: Suds
This gentle preservative system helps prevent spoilage if water gets into your product. It also hydrates and protects sensitive skin with added antioxidant benefits.
Why I chose it:
- Broad-spectrum preservation
- Moisturizing and non-irritating
- EcoCert and COSMOS approved
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Type: Lightweight emollient
Source: Sunflower seeds
Used in: Serum, Salve, Souffle
I use the high-linoleic variety, which is ideal for oily or acne-prone skin. It’s rich in vitamin E and absorbs easily without clogging pores.
Why I chose it:
- Helps balance sebum
- Rich in antioxidants
- Lightweight and non-greasy⁶⁷
Kaolin
Type: Clay
Source: Natural mineral
Used in: Suds
A gentle, low-pH clay that detoxifies and soothes without over-drying. Perfect for sensitive skin or those new to clay products.
Why I chose it:
- Balances oil
- Soothing
- Gentle exfoliation⁹
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Powder
Type: Powder
Source: Rice
Used in: Suds
Fine rice flour has been used in traditional skincare for centuries to help smooth, calm, and brighten skin.
Why I chose it:
- Evens skin tone
- Softens skin
- Soothing for reactive skin¹³
Lecithin (Sunflower)
Type: Emulsifier and hydration enhancer
Source: Sunflower seeds
Used in: Salve, Souffle
Acts as a natural emulsifier while helping active ingredients penetrate deeper. Leaves skin feeling soft and supple.
Why I chose it:
- Improves absorption
- Enhances hydration
- Non-GMO alternative to soy lecithin¹⁰
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
Type: Vegan wax
Source: Rice bran
Used in: Salve, Souffle
A soothing, plant-based wax that gives products their texture while protecting and moisturizing the skin. It’s a great alternative to beeswax.
Why I chose it:
- Lightweight barrier
- Vegan-friendly
- Soft, non-greasy finish¹³
Pentylene Glycol
Type: Humectant + antimicrobial
Source: Sugar-based
Used in: Serum, Salve
A dual-purpose ingredient that attracts moisture into the skin and helps keep formulas stable. Has mild antimicrobial properties.
Why I chose it:
- Hydrating
- Helps maintain product integrity
- Gentle on skin¹¹
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Type: Gentle surfactant
Source: Coconut oil
Used in: Suds
Creates a creamy lather that cleanses without disrupting the skin barrier. Biodegradable and gentle enough for sensitive skin.
Why I chose it:
- Low pH
- Non-stripping
- Baby-safe surfactant
Squalane (Olive-derived)
Type: Lightweight emollient
Source: Olives
Used in: Serum, Salve, Souffle
A stable, non-comedogenic oil that mimics your skin’s natural lipids. Helps soothe inflammation and balance oil production.
Why I chose it:
- Non-greasy moisture
- Helps calm irritation
- Sustainable olive source¹²
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C)
Type: Antioxidant
Source: Oil-soluble form of Vitamin C
Used in: Serum
A stable, lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that penetrates deeper into the skin. Shown to improve skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots.
Why I chose it:
- Brightens
- Antioxidant protection
- Works synergistically with Vitamin E⁸
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Type: Emollient
Source: Cocoa beans
Used in: Salve, Souffle
Naturally rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, this butter melts into the skin and helps it stay soft and moisturized. Smells like chocolate without any fragrance added.
Why I chose it:
- Deep moisturization
- Skin-protective antioxidants
- Delicious natural scent¹³
References
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: Cosmetic ingredient widely used for emolliency and skin conditioning.
- Evangelista MT, Abad-Casintahan F, Lopez-Villafuerte L. The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. Int J Dermatol. 2014. PMID: 24320105
- Fowler JF Jr. Colloidal oatmeal formulations and the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Clin Med Insights Dermatol. 2016. PMID: 28366039
- Jiang Y, Zheng W, Teegarden D. Vitamin E and wound healing: an evidence-based review. Nutr Clin Pract. 2016.
- Baumann L. Vitamin E in dermatology. Dermatol Ther. 2001.
- Darmstadt GL, Saha SK, Ahmed AS, et al. Effect of sunflower seed oil on neonatal infections in preterm infants: a randomized controlled trial. Lancet. 2005. PMID: 25323538
- Solanki K, Malkani R, Chaudhary S, et al. The effects of sunflower seed oil on skin barrier function: A randomized controlled trial. Pediatrics. 2016. PMID: 28070970
- Draelos ZD. The efficacy of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone in hyperpigmented skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024. PMID: 38634176
- Jung Y, Kim M, Kim D. Comparative evaluation of facial masks containing clays. Skin Res Technol. 2024. PMID: 10626287
- Baspinar Y, Bor K, Guzel S, et al. Lecithin nanoemulsions for enhanced dermal delivery of actives. Drug Dev Ind Pharm. 2010. PMID: 20652152
- Pentylene glycol information from cosmetic ingredient reviews and cosmetic chemists associations.
- Gollnick HP, et al. Topical squalane therapy and its dermal benefits. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018.
- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2018. PMID: 28697218
Stay tuned—I'm always updating this list with the ingredients you’ll find in my formulas. If it’s not gentle, effective, and earth-conscious, it doesn’t make the cut.