What's Inside demulcere™ Products: Ingredient Glossary
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Each ingredient I choose has a reason behind it—and I keep the list short, simple, and gentle. I formulate specifically for sensitive, barrier-conscious skin, and every ingredient is fragrance-free and research-backed with citations you can read yourself. This is your scrollable guide to everything I use (and nothing I don't), so you can feel confident about what's going on your skin.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Type: Emollient
Source: Coconut oil and glycerin
Used in: Serum, Salve, Souffle
A lightweight, fast-absorbing emollient that softens and conditions the skin without feeling greasy. It's a fractionated form of coconut oil.
Why I chose it:
- Non-comedogenic
- Silky skin feel
- Gentle for sensitive skin¹
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil
Type: Emollient
Source: Coconut
Used in: Salve
I use fair-trade, organic, pure, unrefined, cold-pressed coconut oil so it retains all its natural benefits. It smells like coconuts (without added fragrance or essential oils) and is rich in lauric acid.
Why I chose it:
- Moisturizing
- Natural scent
- Supports skin barrier²
Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Oil
Type: Emollient
Source: Coffee beans
Used in: Serum, Suds
Cold-pressed oil from roasted coffee beans. Naturally high in palmitic acid, which helps support aging skin and offers a subtle roasted coffee scent.
Why I chose it:
- Antioxidant-rich
- Smells like fresh espresso
- No essential oils or synthetic fragrance³
Colloidal Oatmeal
Type: Powder
Source: Oats
Used in: Suds
Finely ground oats that help calm itching, dryness, and irritation. Clinically shown to reduce inflammation in sensitive skin conditions like eczema.
Why I chose it:
- Anti-inflammatory
- Calms reactive skin
- Creates a protective barrier⁴
D-alpha-Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Type: Antioxidant
Source: Plant-derived
Used in: Serum, Salve
A powerful antioxidant that protects skin and helps reduce the appearance of scars. Also helps extend the shelf life of oils.
Why I chose it:
- Supports healing
- Antioxidant boost
- Works synergistically with Vitamin C⁵
Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate
Type: Natural preservative + humectant
Source: Fermented sugar
Used in: Suds
This gentle preservative system helps prevent spoilage if water gets into your product. It also hydrates and protects sensitive skin with added antioxidant benefits.
Why I chose it:
- Broad-spectrum preservation
- Moisturizing and non-irritating
- EcoCert and COSMOS approved⁶⁷
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Type: Lightweight emollient
Source: Sunflower seeds
Used in: Serum, Salve, Souffle
I use the high-linoleic variety, which is ideal for oily or acne-prone skin. It's rich in vitamin E and absorbs easily without clogging pores.
Why I chose it:
- Helps balance sebum
- Rich in antioxidants
- Lightweight and non-greasy⁸
Kaolin
Type: Clay
Source: Natural mineral
Used in: Suds
A gentle, low-pH clay that detoxifies and soothes without over-drying. Perfect for sensitive skin or those new to clay products.
Why I chose it:
- Balances oil
- Soothing
- Gentle exfoliation⁹
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Powder
Type: Powder
Source: Rice
Used in: Suds
Fine rice flour has been used in traditional skincare for centuries to help smooth, calm, and brighten skin.
Why I chose it:
- Evens skin tone
- Softens skin
- Soothing for reactive skin¹⁰
Lecithin (Sunflower)
Type: Emulsifier and hydration enhancer
Source: Sunflower seeds
Used in: Salve, Souffle
Acts as a natural emulsifier while helping active ingredients penetrate deeper. Leaves skin feeling soft and supple.
Why I chose it:
- Improves absorption
- Enhances hydration
- Non-GMO alternative to soy lecithin¹¹
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
Type: Vegan wax
Source: Rice bran
Used in: Salve, Souffle
A soothing, plant-based wax that gives products their texture while protecting and moisturizing the skin. It's a great alternative to beeswax.
Why I chose it:
- Lightweight barrier
- Vegan-friendly
- Soft, non-greasy finish¹²
Pentylene Glycol
Type: Humectant + antimicrobial
Source: Sugar-based
Used in: Serum, Salve
A dual-purpose ingredient that attracts moisture into the skin and helps keep formulas stable. Has mild antimicrobial properties.
Why I chose it:
- Hydrating
- Helps maintain product integrity
- Gentle on skin¹³
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Type: Gentle surfactant
Source: Coconut oil
Used in: Suds
Creates a creamy lather that cleanses without disrupting the skin barrier. Biodegradable and gentle enough for sensitive skin.
Why I chose it:
- Low pH
- Non-stripping
- Baby-safe surfactant¹⁴
Squalane (Olive-derived)
Type: Lightweight emollient
Source: Olives
Used in: Serum, Salve, Souffle
A stable, non-comedogenic oil that mimics your skin's natural lipids. Helps soothe inflammation and balance oil production.
Why I chose it:
- Non-greasy moisture
- Helps calm irritation
- Sustainable olive source¹⁵
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C)
Type: Antioxidant
Source: Oil-soluble form of Vitamin C
Used in: Serum
A stable, lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that penetrates deeper into the skin. Shown to improve skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots.
Why I chose it:
- Brightens
- Antioxidant protection
- Works synergistically with Vitamin E¹⁶
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Type: Emollient
Source: Cocoa beans
Used in: Salve, Souffle
Naturally rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, this butter melts into the skin and helps it stay soft and moisturized. Smells like chocolate without any fragrance added.
Why I chose it:
- Deep moisturization
- Skin-protective antioxidants
- Delicious natural scent¹⁷
References
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: Cosmetic ingredient widely used for emolliency and skin conditioning. CIR report
- Evangelista MT, Abad-Casintahan F, Lopez-Villafuerte L. The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, clinical trial. International Journal of Dermatology. 2014.
PMID: 24320105
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24320105/ - Coffea Arabica Seed Oil — INCI Decoder ingredient profile.
https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/coffea-arabica-seed-oil - Fowler JF Jr. Colloidal oatmeal formulations and the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2016.
PMID: 28366039
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28366039/ - Baumann LS, Spencer J. The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars. Dermatologic Surgery. 1999.
PMID: 10417589
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10417589/ - Gluconolactone — INCI Decoder ingredient profile.
https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/gluconolactone#details - Sodium Benzoate — INCI Decoder ingredient profile.
https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/sodium-benzoate - Solanki K, Matnani R, Chaudhary S, et al. Effect of sunflower seed oil on newborn skin barrier function. Pediatric Dermatology. 2016.
PMID: 28070970
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28070970/ - Jung YH, Kim MY, Kim HO. Evaluation of clay-based facial masks on skin physiology. Skin Research and Technology. 2023.
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10626287/ - De Paepe K, Hachem J-P, Vanpee E, Roseeuw D, Rogiers V. Effect of rice starch as a bath additive on the barrier function of healthy but SLS-damaged skin and skin of atopic patients. Acta Dermato-Venereologica. 2002;82(3):184–186.
PMID: 12353708
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12353708/ - Baspinar Y, Borchert HH. Penetration and release studies of positively and negatively charged nanoemulsions — lecithin-based formulations. International Journal of Pharmaceutics. 2011.
PMID: 20652152
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20652152/ - Oryza Sativa Bran Wax — INCI Decoder ingredient profile.
https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/oryza-sativa-bran-wax - Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety Assessment of Pentylene Glycol.
CIR report - Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate — INCI Decoder ingredient profile.
https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/sodium-cocoyl-isethionate - Huang ZR, Lin YK, Fang JY. Biological and pharmacological activities of squalene and related compounds: potential uses in cosmetic dermatology. Molecules. 2009.
PMID: 19169201
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19169201/ - Draelos ZD. Topical tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone combination improves photoaged skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2024.
PMID: 38634176
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38634176/ - Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter — INCI Decoder ingredient profile.
https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/theobroma-cacao-seed-butter
Stay tuned—I'm always updating this list with the ingredients you'll find in my formulas. If it's not gentle, effective, and earth-conscious, it doesn't make the cut.